I spent the summer working tirelessly on a new (and my first!) Creative Spark class. The class is based on my best selling book, Piecing Makeover, and I am so excited that I can finally share this with you!
On-demand classes you purchase are available in perpetuity. In addition to taking an on-demand workshop at your own pace from the comfort of your home, you may also take these classes on-demand with your guild or other group – with or without the instructor available. Options are many when it comes to this platform! You can find more information about group class rates here and you can find more information about my teaching fees here.
The live classes through Creative Spark are only offered for a limited time. If you sign up for a live event, the content will be available to you permanently but if you miss signing up for a live event, you will not be able to go back and purchase it.
What You’ll Learn
In this 4.5 hour long class, I go through ALL 132 pages of my book. Cover to cover, sharing all my tips, tools, and resources to make sure you can create perfect blocks every time.
Master essential tools and techniques for precise cutting and sewing.
Learn to build and perfect foundational quilt blocks.
Troubleshoot common quilting issues, from mismatched seams to blunt points.
Apply techniques to both classic and modern quilt designs.
Gain confidence in finishing quilts with flawless sashing, borders, and bindings.
Includes access to course videos, downloads, the Creative Spark private community, and discussion with your instructor. Your course content does not expire.
Class Format
The class is presented in an easy to digest format, and each video focuses on a specific tool, block or piece of content, so it’s simple to find what you need. Class is broken down as follows:
INTRODUCTION
BASIC TOOLS I go over all the basic tools I use throughout the book. I chat with you about them then show you how the tools work. I discuss pros and cons of some tools, why I like certain tools over others, and share my favorites!
BUILDING BLOCKS In this chapter I review strip piecing and the 5 blocks that I consider to the the foundations of all piecing.
CLASSIC FAVORITES We know the favorite classic blocks when we see them, right? I share how to make 8 classic blocks that we all know in love. The perennial favorites that take a quilt from blah to tah-dah! Sawtooth Star, Pinwheel, and Square in a Square are just a few that are included in this section!
MODERN FAVORITES How do you piece a Hexagon by machine?! Well, in this section I’ll show you! Learn how to make 8 modern blocks including equilateral triangles, diamonds, Drunkard’s Path blocks and more!
PUTTING IT ALL TOGETHER The finishing details matter. Learn why I like to use bias binding, how to attach it (including curved corners!), sashings, how to navigate borders, coping strips, how to handle imperfect blocks and how to make setting triangles.
The Takeaway
This class is packed with a ton of information – perfect for beginners AND seasoned quilters. If you’ve been wanting to up your piecing game THIS IS THE CLASS FOR YOU. You will leave class with an excellent foundation and the knowledge to apply it to any challenges you solve when you piece.
Questions? Reach out to me, or leave a comment below.
A bit about CraftNapa and Pokey Bolton, the mastermind behind the magic. Pokey has a long, successful career in quilting including founding both Quilting Arts and Cloth Paper Scissors magazines, founding Quilting Arts TV on PBS and hosting the internationally televised show for seasons 1-13, and she was the Chief Creative Officer at Quilts, Inc., the parent company of the International Quilt Festivals and Quilt Markets.
Pokey resides in Northern California and is often found creating in her Art Barn or caring for her rescue mini horses. Aaaannnnnd, I’d be remiss not to share that she’s an all-around wonderful human.
I am beyond thrilled to be included in a line up of such talent this January! What a way to kick off the new year! I’m floored and humbled at the same time. You can see the entire line up of classes and teachers here. Prepare to be blown away with the classes being offered this year! It’s good. I mean, it’s really good!
Let’s Learn!
Apropos of all of that, if you’ve wanted to learn about this stunning quilt, CraftNapa is an excellent opportunity for you to do just that! Even better is that you can take the class from the comfort of your own home. How great, right?!
But seriously, you’ll have easy access to your stash will be incredibly helpful as you create an Aether Quilt of your own. The quilt moves and changes as you cut out orange peels so making this quilt while having YOUR fabrics within reach and using what speaks to you at your side (or in a closet, drawer, or other spot) will be beneficial.
Here’s the Skinny:
In the first half hour to forty five minutes of class I will walk you through how I made Aether. I’ll give you tons of tricks and tips, and show you some pitfalls to avoid. We will spend A LOT of time talking about color. And yes, the little lecture comes in the form of a powerpoint but actually seeing the quilt evolve from beginning to end with a thorough explanation will be super helpful. I promise! Plus, I’ll inject my humor so we’ll laugh our way through it. The goal is to help get the wheels moving, and trust me! They’ll be moving.
We will have a lot of great conversations about hue, value, fabric choices, and scale. Putting this quilt together is simple but creating a quilt with movement and flow from one color to the next will challenge you. By the end of class you’ll look at fabric and color with fresh eyes.
There is limited space in my class so if you’re interested, you can sign up here before it fills. Class is on Sunday, January 12 from 8am-4pm PACIFIC TIME.
Creating perfect points can frustrate even the most seasoned quilters. If you baste your points before sewing them, you can get perfect points without the aggrivation.
I am a stickler for precision piecing. I know it’s not for everyone – that’s okay! You do you, friend! – but for me, it’s my jam. In Piecing Makeover I wrote that I have a “Third times the charm” rule. Usually, by the third time I’ve taken a seam apart and put it back together, it’s correct. It’s a good rule, though I have been known to take pieces out more than that to make sure they’re perfect.
Over the years I’ve come up with a way to (almost) always get perfect points when I’m matching blocks. I created a short video to share it with you.
Basically, use straight pins and baste your seams before sewing finished blocks or rows together using your standard stitch length. It really will up your game. This method uses more thread, but is much easier to take out basting stitches before sewing blocks or rows together than taking a seam apart that is sewn with a smaller stitch length.
If I’m sewing two blocks together, I’ll sew just the points to make sure they’re positioned correctly before sewing the blocks together. If I’m sewing rows together and have multiple points to match, I’ll sew the entire row. If any points don’t match, I’ll take out the basting stitches around the points, adjust, baste again, and repeat if necessary.
Does this method take a little more time? It does. Is it worth it? It is.
At the beginning of July, I started to work on a new project. I was inspired after the SCOTUS ruling on Presidential Immunity. Let me be clear here: No president is above the law and we should EXPECT that the officer sitting in the highest office in the land follow the letter of the law. We DESERVE a President who is a law abiding citizen. Period. End of story.
All that to say, I while I understand the point SCOTUS made with the ruling, I’m concerned that there may be some terrible consequences from that decision. In the wake of the ruling, I was immediately drawn to how I could process how I felt and how I could work through that artistically. Naturally, I gravitated to this American flag quilt I made in 1995.
It’s been sitting in a cabinet for 30 years. I take it out every (other?) July 4th to snap a photo (if I remember) and then it gets folded up for another year (or two). I still love this quilt even though it isn’t my style now. Definitely not colors or a pattern I would gravitate towards these days but it was a great piece to learn about points matching and other beginning quilting hiccups. I think this was the third or fourth quilt I ever made and it definitely has some mistakes! However, current me is grateful to past me for holding onto it all these years.
I’ll share more about the ah-ha moment of WHAT the direction I was taking this quilt in a later post. This is about taking it apart and dyeing it.
Step One – Take the Quilt Apart
The first step for me was to take apart the quilt. I wanted just a few of the center squares. I spent HOURS carefully taking the quilt apart to get the pieces I wanted.
First I removed the binding.
Then I removed the borders.
Removing Borders
Step Two – Secure the Quilt
After that, I zig zagged around the edges to secure them.
zig zagged edges
Because this quilt is old, there were some seams that had come apart. To maintain the essence and feel of how I wanted this quilt to look when finished (again), I zig zagged seams to close them and secure the pieces.
Step Three – Prep for the Dye
After that, I weighed the quilt.
Step Four – Make the Dye
DISCLAIMER: I am not a fabric dyer, though I have experimented with fabric dyeing in the past and I had a semester of textile chemistry in college. That makes me a pro, right? <<wink, wink>> I’ve been around fabric dyeing enough to be dangerous, but like I said, definitely not a professional. If you choose to dye fabric PLEASE follow all safety instructions, including, but not limited to, wearing a mask and/or respirator and gloves, and follow any recommendations made to keep your house, your body and your space safe. Remember that cups, glasses, pots, other materials you use to dye are NOT safe to cook from once they’ve been used to make a dye. Let me reiterate: follow all safety instructions.
I have to back track a smidge here. The first step to making the dye was determining how much dried walnut shell I needed to make the dye. There are formulas online (just search) based on the weight of the materials you are dyeing. I sorta guessed and used a half a pound of DRY walnut shells. What you use may depend on the weight and quantity of material you plan to dye. I know I wanted my quilt substantially darker so more shells was better for me.
To start, I put the walnut shells in an old lingerie bag. I submerged it into water and brought it to a boil. I let the dye boil for about 1 hour. Look at the before and after below!
dye bath
Then I added my scoured quilt to the dye.
I let the quilt simmer in the pot for 2 hours before cooling it a little and adding some soda ash.
What I learned through my research about dyeing with natural materials before I began was that walnut shells have a high level of tannins and doesn’t need a mordant. To err on the side of caution since I’m a newbie at dyeing with natural dyes (save the one time I did it in college, thank you Dr. Etters), I added a few rusty nails to the dye bath (thank you, Sam Hunter and friend, for guiding me in this process). There’s some sort of reaction between the iron and the walnut, I guess? At any rate, it worked.
Step Five – Wash and Dry
I rinsed the quilt THOROUGHLY before letting it air dry.
The before and after are remarkable!
I needed to calm down the colors and this worked. Fingers crossed the next steps are successful. <<gah….nerves>>>
Check back in a few weeks. I hope to be able to share the next steps soon!
Well, that’s quite the title. Sheesh! But really, you should enter your quilts into judged and juried shows.
I know your first reaction is something like: What if it’s not accepted? What if they don’t like it? Will they say something mean or hurtful about my quilt? I can’t handle the rejection. I’m not ready to handle how I’ll feel about someone critiquing my work.
Let me start with those are all VERY legitimate concerns, thoughts, feelings and they are completely valid, but in order to grow your work it’s a fantastic way to get feedback. Truly.
Let’s Start at the Top
A juried show means there’s a panel of people who decide which quilts are accepted into a show. Sometimes the quilts need to fit into certain criteria, like if there’s a theme for a particular show. Sometimes, a show is looking for a good variety of quilts and styles. Each show is different but being juried into any show is always a great honor.
Those quilts are then judged by professionals, usually with a certification from the National Association of Certified Quilt Judges (or another accredited body, depending on where you live). The judges do not know you. While your work is deeply personal to you, as it should be, they are not trying to hurt your feelings with their feedback. It’s important to remember that. Judges are not trying to be harsh, and feedback should be constructive.
The Nitty Gritty
I know that quilters tend to have very strong feelings about entering judged and juried shows. They either love them or hate them. Me? I love them. In fact, I love them for a few reasons.
The first reason I love to enter quilts into judged and juried shows is that it gives me an opportunity to show off my work. For real. There’s something exciting about knowing people will see what I’ve created. It’s sort of self-aggrandizing in a way, and a definite ego boost. get unbiased feedback on my work. The judges don’t know me, they only see the quilt so they aren’t swayed one way or another by personal feelings.
The second reason I love to enter quilts into shows is that I get unbiased feedback on my work. The judges don’t know me, they only see the quilt so they aren’t swayed one way or another by personal feelings. My friends will always love my work, and I’m grateful for that, but sometimes I want the opinions of professionals. It’s a good way to gauge how I’m doing.
I recently entered Persephone Awaits (above) into Georgia Celebrates Quilts. The quilt was juried into the show, it was judged, and it didn’t win any ribbons. In fact, it’s the first show I’ve put a quilt in that hasn’t gotten a ribbon. And you know what? That’s okay.
I’ll be honest, I kept wondering what the feedback on my quilt would say. I knew a few little things that weren’t *quite* right about my quilt but did that mean I messed it up and would get horrible comments on the judges sheet? No. I got a lot of great feedback. And, not every quilt is award worthy. They CAN just be pretty.
I think the fear is that someone(s) won’t like our work. I get that but I also know that the judges aim to give constructive feedback and that will only help us as artists.
That leads me to point three. Me not winning a ribbon means there were THAT many incredible quilts in the show. That’s why I love a good quilt show. It’s an opportunity to see a wide variety of quilts, colors, techniques, and the like in one place. Honestly, seeing 300 quilts is a gift. I mean, how incredible to see such beauty in the art we love in one place, at one time. It’s the perfect way to spend an afternoon.
The judges comments are below. Constructive. Kind. A good way for me to see how I’m doing.
If you’ve been thinking about entering a show, I think you should. You’ll be glad you did!
I am thrilled to share that my next book, Zero Waste Quilting, will be available this November!
What is Zero Waste Quilting?
Zero Waste Quilting is a new approach that eliminates waste in our studios by showing quilters how to use materials from start to finish. This revolutionary idea will transform your quilting practice and help you embrace a more sustainable quilting ideology.
Each project serves as a catalyst for additional projects by using all the scraps and leftovers. This is a mindful methodology that encourages intentional fabric buying, using what you have, augmenting as needed, and minimizing waste to embrace purposeful designs in a collection of beautiful projects.
Zero Waste Quilting will change how you create and challenge you to push your boundaries to eliminate waste.
Zero Waste Quilting is available on 25 November 2024.
You can pre-order the book from the following places:
I am so thrilled that this scrappy Log Cabin is finally pieced. I absolutely love it and can’t wait to get it basted and quilted.
The Log Cabin blocks were made using scraps of fabric. The small, angled pieces were leftovers from the border strips from Persephone Awaits. I inserted them into leftover WOF strips to add dimension and I think the overall look is interesting and has some depth. I used a Kaffe Fassett print for my setting pieces. They were cut on the bias and starched heavily to minimize stretching.
Here’s a little video of my quilt swaying in a cool, spring breeze.
I don’t have much to share but wanted to update you with the goings on around my studio.
I’ve been working on a few new things. I’m incredibly pleased with my current scope of work, and can’t wait to share more about the process. In the meantime, enjoy the wall.
How it changed:
I moved some of the Log Cabin blocks around the balance the quilt. Fussy cutting the center pieces on the bias required starch and patience, but I think it’ll work out. I contemplated fussy cutting the side and corner setting triangles but decided against it in the end because I would’ve cut off the tops of the flowers so it didn’t make sense to me. A few are fussy cut, but most aren’t. Adds interest, or something like that <<wink>>.
Back in 2017 I wrote a lengthy post about blocking quilts (you can find it here) and since it’s been seven years (Oh. My. Gosh!) I thought I’d share my two cents on blocking quilts again.
There’s a lot of debate about blocking. People definitely have thoughts on the process. Below I share what blocking is, why you block (or not) and how to do it.
What is Blocking?
It’s the process of squaring up your quilt after it’s been quilted so it’s flat and square.
Why Do You Block a Quilt?
You block to make your quilt flat and square, and you can do it for a few different reasons.
You want to put your quilt in a show or you made a wholecloth quilt or wall hanging.
Your quilt has a ruffled or wavy edge that you want removed
You can’t stand quilts that aren’t quite square.
Show Quilts
As a general rule, show quilts be blocked. Show quilts, especially quilts in juried shows, are measured when they are judged to make sure they are square.
Do you have to block a quilt for a show? No, but if you hope to get a ribbon it’s a good step to take.
Do all shows consider this? I’m not sure is the honest answer but most judges I’ve heard speak about the process have shared that they measure to make sure they award ribbons to square quilts.
I’ll go ahead and take a minute to note that I’m a fairly traditional quilter so my pool of knowledge, especially with regard to shows I’ve entered, may be a little more limited than more modern quilters/shows. Keep that in mind as you read this. Different shows have different rules and different judging criteria.
Wholecloth Quilts and Wall Hangings
It’s easy to tell when a wholecloth quilt isn’t square because the stitching, borders, etc. aren’t even along the edges. Wall hangings that don’t lie flat on the wall are easily identifiable as not blocked and squared.
Ruffled or Wavy Quilt Edges
When we piece or quilt a quilt, we risk creating wave. You can do everything correctly – squaring blocks and borders as you go – and it still happens. It’s possible your top isn’t square. It’s possible the top is square but when you quilt it, you get a ruffled or wavy edge. It happens. The good news? You can fix it when you block a quilt!
Quilts That Aren’t Square Get on My Nerves
Quilt not quite square and it’s driving you crazy? Block it.
Do You Need to Block Your Quilt?
Here’s where things get a little messy. Do you need to block your quilt? No. You don’t. It’s entirely up to you. If I’m putting a quilt in a show, if I’ve made a wall hanging or I have ruffled edges, I’ll block it. BUT, if a quilt has slightly ruffled edges and I’m using it on a bed or know it will be well loved and washed again and again, I won’t block it. You can use your judgement to decide what’s best.
How Do You Block a Quilt?
There are multiple ways to block a quilt. Everyone has a method and I’m showing you what works for me. I’ve blocked quilts on carpet, a rug, foam insulation board and now I use dense foam blocks with a 1″ pre-marked grid on them. Some quilters block before a quilt is bound. I like to block a quilt after it’s bound. If you block a quilt this will come down to personal preference. I block after binding to ensure that I don’t distort the quilt when I bind. I know it shouldn’t happen but this is my extra ounce of prevention.
Measure your quilt before beginning so you know (approximately) what size it should finish when you start to block it. Cotton can shrink anywhere from 3-5% so the quilt may be slightly smaller when you lay it out to block it. You can stretch it some, but knowing your starting point is an important first step.
Get Your Quilt Wet
Before doing anything, wash and wet your quilt in a washing machine or the tub.
If you put your quilt in the washing machine, add a few color catchers and put the machine on a gentle cycle. When it’s finished, gently roll the quilt onto a towel* for transport. It’s easier to get a quilt out of a washer if you have a front loader because it rolls right out. If you have a top loader like me, I wad the quilt in the basin, grab under it with both hands and quickly put it on a towel. Experiment with what works best for you.
If you wash your quilt in a tub (be sure to use some color catchers!), wash and rinse the quit to get get it good and saturated, then press out as much water as you can. I just use my hands and press down into the lob of quilt I’ve created. It’s important that you get as much water as possible out of the quilt before transporting it. You can roll the quilt out of the tub onto a beach towel to take to the washing machine for a spin or take it to be blocked.
If the quilt is still heavy from all the water, I’ll put it in the washing machine on a spin cycle to get out some excess water. If you do this, be sure to roll the quilt out of the machine and onto a towel for transport.
*What’s Up With the Towels?
Transport wet quilts on towels. This allows the towel to carry weight of the quilt. That means you are less likely to damage your quilt from the weight from the water, i.e., no popped stitches or seams.
Why Does the Quilt Have to be Wet?
You block a wet, or damp, quilt to block because cotton fibers (cellulose) stretch when wet. This allows you to gently manipulate the quilt when you block it. The stretch means you can pull a side or corner of the quilt to make it lie flat.
The ability for cotton fibers to stretch is also the reason you transport wet quilts on a towel. The weight can stretch the fibers and cause them to break.
What Do I Do With This Wet Quilt?
Once your quilt is washed and wet (or just wet), it’s go time! This is where the fun begins!
As I mentioned previously, you can block on carpet, foam insulation board, dense foam, or any other way you choose. If you block on carpet or foam board you will need rulers, pins and a tape measure. If you block on pre-marked dense foam, you’ll just need pins.
Blocking on Carpet
In my old house, I worked in semi-finished basement room with an inexpensive carpet over the concrete foundation. I blocked quilts on that rug from time to time. The carpet on foundation trick worked extremely well. I had a really solid, stable surface, I didn’t have to worry about t-pins scratching the floor and my quilts came out unbelievably square. So if you have an unfinished basement, get an inexpensive piece of carpet (perhaps a remnant?) and use that on the floor if you have space. Works like a charm.
Insulation Board
Insulation board is a great, affordable way to block a quilt. You can buy it in 4’x8′ sheets. I had the home improvement store cut the board into 4′ square pieces so I could get it home. You can also buy 2′ square pieces of insulation board. The smaller pieces are more expensive but if you can’t fit large sheets of insulation board in your car then it’s the way to go.
Tape the insulation board together. I used painters tape because it’s easy to remove so I can store the 4’x4′ boards in the workroom.
Pre-Marked Dense Foam Boards
A few years ago I found some gridded dense foam boards to use for blocking. The foam boards I have measure 12” x 12” and are about 3/4” thick. They were marketed towards knitters** and came in a pack of 9 so I bought 4 packages and can easily block 72” square quilts (or 60” x 80” or any number of sizes). Each board has 1” markings so I can line up the grids knowing I’ll have straight edges to use to create a large square or rectangle to block quilts.
The edges of the boards interlock for easy assembly and storage. I keep mine stacked under a table when not in use.
** There are a variety of knitting blocking boards on the market. Search online to find what works best for you. The boards I bought are no longer being manufactured.
It’s Go Time
Now that you have a wet quilt and a way to block your quilt, it’s go time.
Open the quilt flat onto the board(s). You do not need to pull or stretch it, just open it.  I make a few initial measurements (see diagram below).  I block my quilts to the largest measurements. For example, if I measure 76″, 76 1/2″ and 77 1/4″ from top to bottom of a quilt, I make sure the quilt is 77 1/4″ long across left, center and right of the quilt.
Use t-pins to secure the quilt to the carpet, foam insulation or foam boards, gently stretching the quilt where necessary. You can read more about how I use foam insulation or carpet here in my earlier post.
I like to block with the binding on the quilt. I do this for two reasons:
First, the quilt can stretch when you sew on the binding after a quilt is blocked. If the binding is sewn down then I can’t stretch it as easily, though I have done that too. I use bias binding on my quilts so I have the ability to stretch the quilt.
Second, you can stick t-pins into the quilt where the binding meets the top of the quilt. Pin holes will disappear and if you see any you can use your fingers to manipulate the fabric back into place.
Because I use gridded foam, I can easily block my quilt following the 1” markings. T-pins are great to use when blocking quilts because they are fairly heavy and the ‘t’ at the top gives you a little extra area when you are getting the pin into the board.
See how the boards lock with one another and the grid matches from board to board? That makes easier to get a straight edge on your quilt when you pin it and takes the guess work out of the equation. You can say goodbye to those rulers when you block!
Now What?
Once you have the quilt square, leave it to dry. I like to put a fan on the quilt to help it dry faster. If it’s a nice day, I’ll leave the quilt outside to dry. I put a white sheet on top to keep of animals and debris.
After the quilt is dry, remove the pins and enjoy!
Have a Different Method?
Do you have a different method to block your quilts? I’m always interested in learning different techniques in quilting. If you block your quilt differently, I’d love to hear more about your process.
